In case you're wondering, "en selle" is "in the saddle," en français. And I'm back in the cooking saddle, at any rate. Tony is on sabbatical, and I'm along for the ride. At the moment he is a "Distinguised Visiting Professor" at the Paris School of Mines, Cote d'Azur campus. You can tell how highly he is valued, because he was presented with BOTH the special mug AND the special pen.